Last time I wrote about how our surveys in the Ebo Forest in Cameroon were planned (see Bethan’s blog, Surveying Forest Elephants in the Ebo Forest). Now for some of the day-to-day trials of conducting a survey and our experiences of the first week!
We are fortunate to have gathered a team of strong and dedicated young biologists and ex-hunters, who now work as field guides for the San Diego Zoo’s Central African Program. We set off from the road on a compass bearing, where I took a group picture at first light. Within 500 yards/meters we encountered a beautiful (if deadly) Gaboon viper sleeping quietly on a branch about 13 feet (4 meters) above ground!
This was the first obstacle of the day, and we were happy to ignore the compass bearing for a few minutes, altering our path so that we didn’t disturb it. Gaboon vipers are pretty docile creatures and require a significant amount of hassle to attack humans, often emitting a low frequency “growling noise” to warn off intruders.
The main trial over the first few days of the survey was crossing the larger rivers that meandered back and forth across our path of travel. Almost inevitably, one side of each river seemed carpeted by an army of biting ants, presumably trying to find a way to cross like us. This made balancing on fallen trees less inviting, so we often waded across, trying to keep our legs as dry as possible.

Some of the mountains we surveyed during the last day.
As the week wore on we got into more mountainous territory, with one notable day requiring a 3,300-foot (1,000-meter) vertical ascent, only to struggle to find a stream near the summit, by which we could make camp for the night. The following day we descended the same height, only to later discover five further summits before reaching our first destination a week later.
The mountainous topography of the Ebo Forest is the major reason why it still harbors so many species that have disappeared elsewhere in the region. Although there have been commercial logging activities in some parts of the forest in the past, it has always been limited in extent because the terrain is plastered by enormous boulders and sheer cliffs. Logged forest is often characterized by a series of abandoned vehicle tracks, making access for hunters and trappers much easier, whereas creating a permanent path in mountainous rocky terrain is hard work for humans and therefore good for animals! Some of the cliffs also deterred us: at the summit of one mountain we twice had to divert our direction of travel until we could find a place to climb over the enormous basalt outcrops.
Finding a suitable place to camp each night was also tricky, for it is currently the height of the dry season and many of the mountain streams have dried up. We took plenty of anti-diarrhea tablets with us and were as careful as we could be with boiling our water; thankfully, we all managed to make the first week with few mishaps. Perhaps the most serious problem was caused by my choice of place to pitch my tent one night: next to a Barteria tree, home to a symbiotic ant species that “protects” the tree by inflicting a nasty bite and injects potent poison on intruders. Two hours after a particularly ferocious attack on my shoulder and finger, my left hand had swollen to the size of a small balloon and I started becoming concerned at the pain. Luckily, the antihistamines we had in the first aid kit helped, and within three days the swelling had subsided dramatically (though as I write this, almost two weeks later, my fingers are still swollen).
I was also surprised to see my first leech when bathing in a stream one night. I have never seen them in the Ebo Forest until now; it is not common to find them in fast-flowing streams.

African rock python
Maybe the best sight in the first few days, however, was that of a giant rock python – one of the largest snakes in Africa – basking in the sun in an area where there had recently been tree falls caused by high winds. While I knew the python was not venomous, the local members of our team were adamant that we should not approach. Hence the rather small photograph taken at a distance of over 5 yards/meters of a very beautiful snake! Its diameter we estimated to be around 6 inches (15 centimeters), and its length exceeded 5 yards/meters, although it was obscured by the fallen trees.
Shortly I’ll post some of the other interesting things we came across, including goliath frogs, solitary monkeys, and chimpanzees, as well as a sobering tale from a hunter we met on our way, as well as news on our search for signs indicating the presence of forest elephants.
Dr. Bethan Morgan is a Central Africa Program specialist with the San Diego Zoo.