While conducting surveys for forest elephants in the Ebo Forest (see Bethan’s blog, Surveying Forest Elephants…and Snakes?), it is impossible to ignore the huge variety of other interesting things we encounter. Due to its mountainous topology, Ebo has many small streams and rivulets. When our surveys take us close to these rivers, we are forced to move very carefully. Most are extremely rocky due to all the enormous boulders that have fallen from the steep mountains on either side. These rocks provide an ideal living environment for goliath frogs Conraua goliath, the largest species of frog in the world, which can weigh more than 6.5 pounds (3 kilograms). Usually they are very shy creatures, particularly in the daylight hours, but we have been lucky enough to see them on several occasions. Goliath frogs are officially classified as endangered, have a very limited natural distribution (only in southern Cameroon and Equatorial Guinea) and are protected by law in Cameroon. Despite this, however, they are still hunted extensively for the bushmeat trade. The San Diego Zoo has conducted fieldwork on this spectacular species in the past in a different region of Cameroon.
We also encounter monkeys of various species every few hours, including the crowned guenon Cercopithecus pogonias, and the putty-nosed guenon Cercopithecus nictitans. Interestingly, many of the monkeys we are currently seeing are solitary males, which is unusual since they usually travel in groups. There are currently very few forest fruits available for primates to eat; it is the height of the dry season (particularly severe this year), and it is possible that the males are finding it more productive to forage alone, rather than in larger groups with more competition for fruit.

Old chimpanzee nest
One wonderful surprise during these surveys has been the sheer number of chimpanzee signs we have encountered; in two weeks of surveying, we have found no fewer than 23 groups of nests. The nests have been of varying ages, of course, from freshly built, with leaves still green and fresh feces on the ground nearby (which we collect for genetic and fecal analyses), to much older, disintegrating nests, where only careful observation can identify the carefully twisted branches that once formed a perfect mattress.
During the first week of the survey, we bumped into a man. It turned out that he was a trapper, following a path to check his traps (snares). He was as surprised as us and at first tried to keep away from us, fearing that we were forest guards. But we were able to calm him down and ended up enjoying a friendly conversation with him. He was about 50 years old, spoke only in the local language of Banen (not a word of English or French, the official languages of Cameroon), and from what we could see, was not having a very successful day. He told us of his village, where he has lived all his life, and his family, and explained that he was mostly subsistence hunting to provide food for his family. Rarely, if he trapped something of value and he could find a buyer, he would sell the animal to a bushmeat trader, but this was uncommon.
We then spoke to him about the fact that the Ebo Forest was soon to be a national park and what that will mean for his activities (he will not be able to enter the area without authorization). He realizes that his trapping will have to stop and instead he intends to concentrate on farming. He then told us a story: four years ago, as he was working in his farm where he grows plantains and other foods for his family, he was clearing away dense undergrowth to plant more vegetables when a hunter, mistaking him for an animal, shot him in the upper body with a shotgun. He then showed us his scarred face and assured us that he would never carry a gun. It is a sad fact that hunting injuries are all too common in rural areas in Cameroon and only exacerbated by the lack of safety consciousness and illegality of gun ownership, which is almost always the case. This sobering tale made us realize the human aspect to hunting; all too often we concentrate on the effects on the wildlife. This sort of story often brings it home to me that the hunters individually are no different in character to any other person and certainly are not worthy of our individual condemnation or contempt.
Finally—did we see elephants? Well, not yet, but that’s not a surprise. The areas we have surveyed are close to both roads and villages, where animal densities are always less due to pressure from hunting. We have seen a few signs of elephant presence: a very old footprint (probably at least four months old) and an old elephant path. This is the first phase of our elephant research in Ebo, and the surveying is scheduled to be complete by the end of June. As I type these words, I have just parted company with the elephant survey team, having been with them for the first few weeks of the survey to guide, supervise, and ensure things were running well and the procedures were all being adhered to. The survey will now continue into more remote regions, further away from the villages and roads, penetrating more deeply into the Ebo Forest. They have a satellite phone for security, and we have organized modes of communication to ensure that safety is of paramount importance. I look forward to mid March, when I will again join them in searching for signs of forest elephants.
Dr. Bethan Morgan is a Central Africa Program specialist with the San Diego Zoo.